I’ve chosen to do my last post on South Africa under the”Sign Language” banner because money exchange and wiring signs were everywhere in Cape Town, yet often they were the only real reminder that we had that we were truly in Africa. Cheap calling rates to Angola, bargains in West African francs and cheap tickets to Nouakchott. I barely knew half of the places and names advertised. I was warned by many before we visited that Cape Town wasn’t really “Africa” and–although I didn’t get the opportunity to see the contrast–what I saw was enough to still understand why.
Our time there was such a mixture of different emotions. You’d have to make the journey from one of the world’s poorest countries, to one of the world’s richer cities to understand the culture shock we found ourselves in. It took 24 hours just to feel normal again around traffic lights and sidewalks. I spent the next few days figuring out where I thought I was on the scale of all thing previously experienced: a little bit of England, a little bit of Australia, and a little bit of something else entirely. And, yes, judging by the staff who served me in the restaurants – a little bit of Africa. That was the oddest part. The separation of black and white is still very much in existence, but from the little slice of middle-class black South Africans that I saw, perhaps this is slowly changing.
Two weeks is not enough to see the country. I wish we had two months so see and explore the country more….and maybe we will some day. But, as it stood, it was the perfect break from the chaos of Kathmandu. ‘Til next time…
Relatively speaking, Cape Town was pretty busy over the Christmas/New Year period. It never felt congested like it does in Kathmandu so much of the time, but getting a dinner table at a nice waterside restaurant got very competitive, very quickly. Cammps Bay is a popular destination for dinner and you need to score a seat early for an evening “sundowner” but, on the evening of our wedding anniversary, the weather turned stormy and the restaurant seats filled even earlier. There was nowhere left to sit, so we decided to skip the pre-dinner drink and drive further down around the coast to Hout Bay and have dinner at a large old-fashioned seafood restaurant we’d discovered earlier in the week.
Once they learnt it was our wedding anniversary we got a great seat next to the window overlooking the beach and bay. The wind whipped, the small window panes rattled and the sky threatened rain. I felt like we were back in Devon or Cornwall in the winter watching the weather come in. We saw dog walkers on the beach and watched kids playing in the freezing cold ocean, tossing huge clumps of seaweed at one another, and it slowly grew dark. I ate so much fabulous lobster I could barely move.
The stormy sky is the only clue to the bad weather. The wind blew hard, rattling the glass in the restaurant window. I felt like I was on the coast in England.
Kung foo kicks and seaweed throwing in the freezing water!
Full of wine and lobster!
Lastly, a few photos of Hout Bay in the day time:
It was an unassuming kind of place with warehouses to store freshly caught fish and kiosks selling fish and chips at local prices.
Hout Bay seals!…who swam over from seal island for a photo and a snack from the handful of tourists
I liked watching people interact with the seals and seagulls. This guy was clearly a regular.
I don’t know why I’ve struggled to get the South African stories down from our trip at Christmas. Lots of competition, I guess…. But here’s a little photo tale of our visit to the penguin colony near Simon’s Town, about an hour or so south of Cape Town. Its become a significant tourist attraction about half way down the drive to Cape Point, but its very well done with the penguins’ well-being in mind, and its doing its part to monitor the African Penguin population.
African Penguins have recently been reclassified from “vulnerable” to “endangered” and the numbers have continued to steadily decrease despite the establishment of the Boulders Penguin Colony in 1983. This is due in part to the usual depressing list of environmental challenges that all marine life faces today, but at least the colony is providing an income towards their conservation, as well as an opportunity for environmentalists to monitor their progress. It was my first time seeing penguins in the wild:
That’s not snow or ice. I’m pretty sure its penguin poop!
The walkway allows visitors to get up close and personal with the penguins without any physical contact. They seemed pretty used to humans and just ignored us!
Yes…I still felt like I was watching a cocktail party…
…a cocktail party where some guests were much better dressed than others!
I think this poor little guy was about to be shown the door.
They are noisy critters too. Someone should explain to me why they do that while they’re nesting
There were little fibre glass shelters dotted around on the scrub land near the beach. This guy looks like he doesn’t want visitors!
Driving back from visiting a community farm — in the middle of nowhere — we came upon this giant statue of a baby Buddha and had to take a photo! He had a neon wire halo (unfortunately you can’t see so well in the photo) which lights up at night. Even more odd were the electric cables running across his body. Bizarre, sincere, and a little creepy all at the same time! http://ceenphotography.com/2015/03/29/cees-odd-ball-photo-challenge-2015-week-13/
This evening, after some unseasonably heavy rain, I returned home from work to a cloud of dragonfly-like bugs swarming across the garden. I followed their source, across the flower bed, to a patch of dirt where the bugs were hatching. They seemed to be materializing from thin air, struggling for just a few seconds to find their wings, then moments later they fluttered up and flew away. The crows had spotted them long before me, and were watching greedily from the surrounding rooftops. They watched, they waited, and then swooped down for bug snacks. The life span of some must have been less than one minute: a murder of crows, indeed!
Its not uncommon to see crows at dusk in Kathmandu, but you usually hear their raucous cries first. As the sun goes down, they circle the tree tops to nest for the night and it feels (and sounds) just like a Hitchcock movie. So, with apologies to Hitchcock, here are some shots of this evening’s bug and bird spectacular that happened right in my yard!
As sort of a second installment of my recent stay in Chitwan, here’s a follow up video to The Bridge.
Most evenings, we like to sit by the river with a glass of wine, fight off the mosquitoes and watch the sun go down. Across the same bridge, a ten minute walk away, is the nearest village. On our second to last night there, we took a stroll over and shot the evening routines. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did:
In Chitwan, they tarmacked the road a while back and then just left the tin drums there. What else to do with them?
Floating paper lanterns, siquihor, philippines
Seal, just chilin’…Hout Bay, Cape Town
Fewa Lake, Pokhara, Nepal
For me “fresh” doesn’t really mean signs of Spring like melting snow or fresh flowers. In pollution-choked Kathmandu, fresh is the quality of the air, and visiting a place where the plants are green and not coated in dust. The good news is that an hour drive out of the city takes you out of the valley’s smoggy haze and into a cleaner, fresher environment. And although I was tempted to do a Nepali interpretation of “fresh” with wonderful mountain views, my mind kept going to South Africa where we visited this Christmas. Oh, the fresh air, bracing winds, sparkling, sunny, blue skies, and freezing cold waters that clear out your lungs and take your breath away! Now that’s fresh!… Here’s a late afternoon walk we took along Cape Town’s, Cammp’s Bay in December: