Weekly Photo Challenge: Beautiful Dreamers


Most days when I’m out and about, I see someone sleeping in some unlikely spot, grabbing a quick snooze when and where they can.  Most of the time, I don’t have a camera to hand or the opportunity to take a snap. But sometimes, I do!  Here are some beautiful dreamers captured:

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A quick snooze in Bhaktapur

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These chairs were for sale at an action. I’m guessing this guy wasn’t interested in buying!

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I wanted to sneak up and put a blanket over this one.

For more dreamers see: Weekly Photo Challenge: Dreamy

How (not?) to garden in Kathmandu


One of the weird things about bouncing around the planet so much is having to continuously adapt to different climates.  We are here for two years in Kathmandu, and have now been though the annual seasonal rotation once.  In theory, we are back where we arrived, at the end of the rainy season, except that it doesn’t really remind me very much of last year. But then again, I’ve only done this once….when does it start to get cold again?  What’s the season for tomatoes?  What can you grow in the winter if it there’s hardly any frosts?  Its confusing.

In theory, October and November are very warm and sunny during the day and starting to get cool at night.  December and January are sunny and mild during the day, and can get down to frost at night (occasionally).  I didn’t have much in the garden last December.  I have no idea how our geraniums are going to handle it.  They certainly didn’t like the rainy season very much.  Almost nothing did.  Pots became waterlogged and septic if we didn’t move them into a covered location.  Plants just went yellow and died.  But finally the rains are going away and the soil is begging to be turned and planted.  Who are we to say no?!

There’s a plot to the side of the house that was a kiddy sand pit when we moved in.  The previous tenants very kindly left it there for “other families with kids.”  As Latham is a little to old to play in a sandpit we were stuck with the problem of getting rid of it.  The sand was dumped in the corner behind the mango tree, but the soil underneath was dusty and lifeless.  Our staff threw in a few flowers higglety-piggedly and it was hard to access or water.  Security guards stepped on the strawberries.  Nothing did very well.

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The ex-sand pit.  Not quite the “before” picture.. more like “before the flowers went in”

Finally I got smart.  I bought some cheap local bricks (with swastikas I might add – explanation here) and made a  simple path through the mess. Then I did triage on everything that was growing there, dug it over and added compost.  Everything is looking so much healthier, and I can get in to water and weed .  Next we went shopping for fall plants and a few supplies.  You can find plants and compost, but things like supporting sticks, wire, ties, that kind of thing are non-existent.  Robert made sticks by quartering big, fat bamboo poles with a cleaver.  We didn’t need much else, but what we did need had to be ordered from Amazon.  There’s very little in the way of gardening supplies here.

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So my path is lined in swastika bricks. Isn’t everyone’s?!

 

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Shopping for plants always fills me with joy. Lots of new colours!

 

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Robert’s very healthy looking tomato plants. They are starting to flower so we should have fruit set starting in a couple of weeks. Hopefully with a little plastic each night once it starts to get colder they will survive the cold and get enough sun during the day. Unfortunately, the house next door is blocking too much sunlight already.

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My finished garden. Just waiting for the mums to grow and blossom. Hopefully it will look pretty for the next couple of months.

I remember how much I missed having a garden in Manila, and its taken almost a year (or half our tour) for me to head out to plant things.  It was Robert’s insistence on planting tomatoes that got me past all the challenges of gardening here and back outside again.  Even if we only get a couple of months outside poking around in the dirt,  its valuable time outdoors while we still can.  Who knows where we’ll be living this time next year.  More photo updates if all grows well!

Back in the ‘Du


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I’ve been back in the’Du for about six weeks now and, shamefully,  have hardly posted anything on the blog.  I thought I had the discipline down…perhaps not.  It seems that it a required tradition that after I return from Greece, I go through re-entry displacement for a while.  I know its coming, but I never know in what form until I try and settle back in everyday life.  By re-entry displacement I’m referring to a feeling of non-belonging anywhere really which, accompanied by other issues unforeseen, leads to life in a hazy funk for a while and an abandoned blog.  (Who wants to read about hazy funks!).

I remember two years ago going through a similar period after I returned from Greece to the Philippines.    Oh the rain!  It rained nonstop for weeks straight and I don’t mean English drizzle.  It pounded down relentlessly, the streets flooded, people were forced out of their homes, but on the 21st floor of a Manila high rise apartment, I just felt trapped and bored.  Back in Kathmandu, I was hoping to return to a rainy season that was mainly over.  Was I ever wrong!  It has rained heavily every day for weeks (mostly at night) and, this time, with flooding and fatal mudslides. For hillside villages in rural areas, it has been devastating. For us, of course, its just meant lots of mud, mildew on everything, drowned plants, and a soggy background to a series of work and health challenges which have been slowly coming under control.

As the malaise lifts I remember why we came here, and the reality that we now have only ten short months to appreciate where we are and enjoy Nepal for what it is – warts ‘n all.  Normal service will resume shortly…..

Weekly Photo Challenge: Boudha Stupa at Night


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Our visit started at Boudha at dusk..

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As the light started to fail, the Stupa’s lights turned on and sparkled

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and the colours intensified

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until it was completely dark outside, but somehow the Buddha wisdom eyes were still visible, looking down.

Weekly Photo Challenge: Boudha Stupa at Night

Visiting Nepali Schools


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A public school just outside of Kathmandu

One of the best things I do here – and sometimes one of the hardest – is visiting schools. I get to see all kinds of age groups, public and private schools, as well as college level students. Education here is not available to everyone, and public education is hugely underfunded and mostly leaves a lot to be desired.  There are some amazing dedicated public school teachers who operate the best they can with very little but often this isn’t the case.  Sometimes it can be very hard to see how little they have. Many schools have virtually nothing in the way of facilities and school libraries are a rarity, which is why we have a mobile library that travels to road-accessible areas all over Nepal to bring books, educational presentations and internet technology to kids that have sometimes never seen them before.

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Embassy book bus on a school visit

The upside to the visits is always meeting the kids and seeing/hearing their questions, enthusiasm and curiosity.  They love the books – which many of them don’t get to see very often – and it’s very rewarding to see them absorbed into the world of reading.  I can’t help taking pictures.  Here are a few of my favourites:

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Mr. Momo


The A Word A Week Photo Challenge this week is “Kitsch” and there’s no end of it here – at least by Western tastes.  Let’s start with Mr Momo, a steamed dumpling with legs! The animated personification of Nepal’s favourite snack!

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But why stop there?!  Bhatbhetini Department Store is a treasure trove of perfect gifts for that persons that likes to make a statement.  Classy, tacky, kitsch?  You decide:

 

Birds of Nepal


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Birds are everywhere. Waking up in Kathmandu during our first few weeks, it was a surprise hearing birds in the morning. On the 21st floor of a high rise tower in Manila we never heard them at all. In fact, we rarely saw birds at all in Manila. Kathmandu is packed with crows (that probably deserve a post all of their own)…but they are loud, obnoxious, and omnipresent. Many of Kathmandu’s religious sites are packed with swarms of pooping pigeons so, between Kathmandu’s two biggest bird populations, there aren’t the best examples of bird life. But fortunately they aren’t alone. I’ve seen green parrots in the mango tree, elegant yellow birds digging for worms on our lawn and little black tits flying around our yard.

But the best birds – and there are some amazing ones – are outside of the city. Chitwan was teeming with beautiful peacocks and tropical varieties, and birds of prey are everywhere here.  Here are some pictures from our travels:

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The omnipresent crow…there always one looking down on you from somewhere…

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…always. They are just waiting from a moment to fly down and swoop the food from your plate

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….and they sneak up on you when you’re not looking. The farmers here had left their lunch unattended. Spot the crow!

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In Shivapuri, we marveled at the incredible number of birds of prey in flight all at the same time: hawks, kytes and vultures circled overhead. Just look at them all….

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white egret

My favorites though are the egrets, who just arrive and hang out for a while. They aren’t skiddish unlike most birds and loved to pose for pictures

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Missing here are some photos of the beautiful, colourful Chitwan birds…so part two needs to follow later…

Boudha in the Rain


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Entering Boudhanath Stupa

Boudhanath Stupa is one of the most popular places to visit in Kathmandu.  Its in the Buddhist section of town and a huge center of Buddhism in the city. We visited a while back when we first arrived in the city, but I didn’t have the chance to take pictures until now.

Dusk was falling and so was the rain. I was disappointed because I finally had my camera and a chance to capture the experience on film and the rain threatened the opportunity. But it quickly became intriguing how the umbrellas added to the atmosphere and pretty soon I found myself taking pictures of a very different Boudha.  Here are a few of my favourite shots:

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The parade of umbrellas traveled clockwise around the Stupa. The clockwise only rule still applies in the rain!

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As dusk fell, the decorative lights started to turn on…

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…and the Buddha eyes looked down.

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The stores selling Buddhist trinkets and religious items started to close….

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…but the devout carried on with their prayers.

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The whole stupa was lit with thousands of fairy lights, which washed the temple with colour…

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…and a spectacular sight when darkness came.

Wrong Turns Down Dark Alleys


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Daily Prompt: Wrong Turns. When was the last time you got lost? Was it an enjoyable experience, or a stressful one? Tell us all about it.

How funny to return home in the last hour to this prompt! We just got lost in the back alleys of Kathmandu, which was quite an adventure….

Kathmandu at night just closes down, and as the shutters from shops descend at the end of the day, things get very dark.  There isn’t a street light in the whole city. It is sort of mesmerizing and scary at the same time. Not really scary in a way that you might fear other people, but scary because you can’t see where you are going in a city where sidewalks have missing paving stones, giant holes, obstacles, dog poop, and gutters with 12 inch drops.

Fortunately we were driving.  So it was the driver who feared making a wrong move…which he did by turning right too soon.  I knew that…but then I presumed he knew something I didn’t, which is often the case for me.  I was wrong ( and he was wrong too), so we got lost.  The road grew narrower and narrower and the crazy thing about Kathmandu alleys is that driving down them sort of feels like some kind of computer game.  At every turn you see the dead end of a brick wall ahead, and is only when you are upon it that you realize that the road still continues by winding left or right around someone’s property.  It always looks like a dead end for sure…but suddenly there’s still a way out…at least most of the time.  The organic way that the city developed means that roads were never laid out and no space was ever planned for vehicles.  The roads just wind their independent way around whatever property they come across.  I lost all sense of direction in no time.

On and on we wound, until finally we turned right towards the main road and there it was….a giant dug up ditch the size of the whole street. Piles of dirt lined its edges and concrete drainage pipes sat waiting to be laid inside. It was completely impossible to pass.  We couldn’t back up, so we turned left.  On and on we wound some more, only this time we were heading in the wrong direction, at least I thought so.  My internal compass isn’t great at the best of times, but in the dark, down endless alleys, it was hopeless.  After about another ten turns, there was another car in front of us, heading in the opposite direction. It wasn’t going to back up..so we had to..  and we backed up around corners –much to the entertainment of onlookers – for about 50 yards until the road was wide enough for two vehicles to pass.  Phew!  And finally…God bless him… the driver found his way out of the maze and back onto the main street again.  We laughed and it was an adventure.  But I don’t need to do it again soon.

So that was my Wednesday night, how was yours?!

 

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