Day 6: West Highland Way(Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse)


…or The Day of the Moors….

I knew I was going to have mixed feelings about this day.  The 13-mile trek from Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse crosses Rannoch Moor.  It one of the highest rises on the journey and one of the bleakest spots.  Once you start the crossing at Black Mount, it is a straight 10-mile walk without civilization or shelter, and today the clouds were sitting low and the weather was looking iffy.  My mind went back to the day Carla and I crossed the North Yorkshire Moors in 2009 in pouring rain, thunder and lightening.  The journey had been very wet, tiring, long and a bit scary. So today I was feeling a little anxious.  But I also love the Moors because of their seclusion, openess, and wildness.  It would have been a real loss to the walk to miss them, and yet a taxi ride to the next stop was looking very tempting.  I kept fretting and checking the weather forecast.  I needed more information.

The odd thing about this trip has been the absence of Scots in service positions.  All our waiters, receptionists, or cashiers have all been Eastern European, often Polish.  Just three years ago in the Lake District, I would talk to a local and get a feel for the walk and weather conditions.  It was no different here and asking for help seemed a waste of time, but fortunately the South African receptionist knew the path and conditions, and I left feeling better and more prepared for the day.

The walk started with a quite simple hike of a few miles to Inveroran where we stopped for a brief cup of tea in virtually the only place there, the Inveroran Hotel.  After this the road takes you out to a conifer plantation and the start of the moors.  The weather held, and the cloud level rose.  The track was wide and dry and it was a straight easy path through the moors with enough visibility to enjoy the scenery.

On Rannoch Moor

The climb up was gentle, and it was only once we reached the 1490ft summit that the temperature dropped quite a bit, and the wind picked up.  The descent too was mostly gentle, and after just a couple of miles, we saw our next destination, the Kingshouse Hotel, in the far distance.  What a welcome sight that was!  Especially, as the wind and rain was starting to pick up.  Once we had climbed over the crest, the wind was in our faces and stinging our cheeks.  But the descent was reasonable and the Hotel rarely left our sight, egging us on.

The Kingshouse Hotel beckoning us from a distance

I liked the Kingshouse Hotel.  At 87 pounds night (and the only Inn not to include breakfast) it was expensive.  It was a bit shabby, and had a serious insulation problem.  The room was drafty and the bathroom was in serious need of repair.  But it was full of history and had stood at the edge of the moor for centuries for weary travelers like us.  The lounge had a coal fire and the views from the windows on all sides were spectacular.  We were literally in the middle of nowhere.  We had arrived in enough time to enjoy the sofas, catch up on emails and rest up a bit.

View from the stairwell

View from our bedroom window

Day 5: West Highland Way(Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy)


We had a leisurely start to this leg of the trail.  Its only about 5 miles, or about 2.5 hrs of travel.  It could be tagged onto the previous day, but we would have made it another long, exhausting trip, and it was time to take a much needed break.  The internet at the unspectacularTyndrum Lodge was suddenly working, and we took advantage for the first couple of hours, catching up on email and adjusting travel plans.  With such a short trail, we needed a late start so that we didn’t arrive at the next hotel too early.  So we headed out at around10.30am, just as the sky was starting to brighten a little.

The walk was easy on wide trails, taking us around the foothills and following the road and railway line for quite a while.  It was pretty, open country with more sheep than I’ve seen on this whole trip so far.

I particularly liked this spot by the river, sitting on a rock, taking a little break.

It was good to have enough time to really enjoy the view without worrying how many miles we still have to cover or how the weather would turn.

Arrival at The Bridge of Orchy was just a simple descent down into the hamlet.  There’s a station, a few houses, a post office, a church and a hotel.

The Bridge of Orchy Hotel was charming and comfortable.  A big contrast to the Bates Hotel from earlier the same morning, with a nice bathroom, a good restaurant and lots of nice little touches.  Of course, it was also twice the price.  But this was a reward hotel after staying in some cheaper places.  We had a nice dinner in the restaurant and an early night as the next day was going to be more taxing.

Day 4:West Highland Way(Inverarnan to Tyndrum)


Leaving Inverarnan the weather forecast was dreary.  It promised a 50% chance of rain by noon, with the odds increasing to 100% by the early evening.  The incentive was to get out of the hotel as soon as possible to cover as much ground as we could before the rain began.  So much for odds, as it started raining as early as 10am and continued with a moderate force for about 2hrs.  It was the first time we had to break out the rain gear and the prospect of seeing the world from inside a plastic bag was a little discouraging.  However, there is nothing like actually getting uncomfortably wet to make you stop, put the gear on and adjust to the new conditions.  After a while I got used to seeing the world from the inside on my hood, and got back into the swing of things.

We covered quite a variety of terrain.  The day started out on a wide, level path through a country park, and then veered to the right, following the giant electric pylons that run down the valley.  Although they do mar the otherwise idyllic landscape, they were not too obnoxious, and there was plenty else to look out.  The nearby mountains were still visible through the light rain.  Sheep watched us from the fields, and the bracken pathways wove prettily through the gentle ups and downs of the trail.  Once we crossed the A82, the terrain changed to a more open slope and the rainfall picked up.  We were forced to cover our packs and legs, and carry on for a couple of more miles down the path.  Here the Way turns left towards Tyndrum, but as there was no lunch spot available, and in the rain this meant a straight march all the way.  Turning right would mean that we could go to the nearest village to shelter from the rain and get a bite to eat, but it was a 30 minute detour from the path.  We chose option A: to keep going.

Next the terrain changed to forest and we climbed way up into it, and then hiked down the steep descent to the forest floor, and picked up the river.  Following this for a few miles the trail brings you to more bracken covered moorland, some priory ruins and – the glorious unexpected offer of a hot cup of tea at a camping/wigwam village.  When you’re tired and soggy, even tea in a Styrofoam cup tastes wonderful.  I had two.

After a longish break, we had but two miles to Tyndrum, the rain had completely eased off, and we had a pleasant walk into the town.  Our accommodation was the Tyndrum Lodge, and not one of my best choices.  It’s the closest comparison would maybe be the Bates Motel.  It was rundown, neglected and just sad.  The attached Paddy’s Bar was owned the same family, and quite popular, helped tremendously by the fact that it’s the only pub in town.  But we ate instead at The Real Food Café which had a good fish and chip menu with a focus on sustainability.  Tyndrum has the last shops until Kinlochleven – two days away, so we also shopped for a few supplies.

No real photos today  — sorry —  camera was buried in the dry bag!

Following the Thistle


Three years since my last big hiking adventure with Carla, I have finally been able to make it to another long-distance trail, The West Highland Way in Scotland.  This time my brave hiking partner is Michelle, a friend from Manila and my hiking buddy from the Banaue Rice Terraces adventure.

We’ll be traveling from Milngavie, a suburb of Glasgow where the Way starts.  From there it runs 95 miles North to Fort William, across varied countryside and open moors.  Its been a while since either of us have been out of the tropics and the thought of shivering in 12 degrees Celcius seemed a little unreal.  We met at Heathrow on Sunday as Michelle flew in from Bangkok, and have started our Scottish adventure.  So for a little news on the Highlands and plenty of pictures of us soggy and windswept…watch this space…