Weekly Photo Challenge: Perspective


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American Cemetery, Fort Bonifacio, Manila, Philippines. A solo Star of David amid a sea of crosses. The American Cemetery contains the largest number of American dead from World War II with over 17,000 graves.

This post is a participant in the Daily Post’s Weekly Photo Challenge: Perspective.

Secret Jellyfish World


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jellyfish

In Koror, a small island kingdom in the Pacific,  there’s a jellyfish lake. Its water is warm and murky, and gliding in feels like stepping into a warm bath.  Peering below the surface of the water, it takes a few seconds to comprehend the other worldliness of the scene.   Pulsating everywhere around are millions…literally millions…. of jellyfish.  They throb and glide through the water in a psychedelic spiral wave, constantly appearing and then disappearing into the cloudy water beyond.   Little alien brains on a mission for light.

It takes a leap of faith to reach out and touch the first one. I picked a very small jellyfish at first, just to be safe.  Oh, the fear!   It brushed my fingers and I flinched.  But,  just as promised, there was no sting.   Then, feeling braver,  I reached out and touched a larger one.  Scooped in my hand, it felt fragile and vulnerable, and suddenly seemed all it really was- just a lump of jelly.

This post was written as part of the challenge:  Daily Prompt: Twilight Zone

Bicycle Balancing Act


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25 years ago, I used to ride a bike as my only form of transportation along the coastline in the suburbs near Athens.  I cycled along the paralia into town daily.  One morning, laden down with groceries, dog food and dry cleaning, my bike literally snapped under the weight of the load, crumbling to the road and taking it me down with it.  I wasn’t hurt, but my bike lay on the ground contorted, with its neck snapped — fatally wounded with the handlebars still in my hands but joined to the bike’s main frame only by the brake line.  I looked like a freak show.   With my shopping scattered everywhere,  I had to leave the tangled mess abandoned on the curbside to  frantically find a phone and call home for someone to come and scoop me up.   Turns out my faithful bike was a bit of a wimp.

Here in Kathmandu, I remember that experience sometimes when I see  workhorse bicycles passing by,  laden with extraordinary heaving loads. These aren’t wimpy, modern bikes.  But antiqued, sturdy, bone-rattling warriors of the road…which may, or may not, have brakes.   They almost always don’t have gears.  But what they lack in suspension, they make up  for in brute strength.

Sometimes they are so overladen they can only be slowly pushed by their owners, who precariously try to balance their load without being run over by traffic or toppled by the many potholes.  Or sometimes they’re driven by vendors bringing produce from a farm outside the city on a bicycle-towed cart,  or some other creative incarnation of a bicycle that has been cleverly adapted for its owners cargo: the straw broom guy, the furniture sellers or the amazing construction assistants with 50lb bags of cement slung over their handlebars.  I’m awed at what I see ferried around by bike. 

And sometimes I am just horrified.  I see people carrying plates of glass or mirrors,  untethered small children, or horrible breakable, dangerous things that would end in disaster if someone mis-timed or mis-stepped in Kathmandu traffic.  And yet — at least for now — I’ve yet to see that happen.  These guys do this everyday, and are very good at it, and their amazing, trojan bicycles keep them in business.

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This post is was part of the Weekly Writing Challenge, Object ,at dailypost.wordpress.com.

Sign Language: Cultural Context


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I first saw this gate on the first day or two after we arrived in Kathmandu. I did a double take. It was extremely strange to see the Nazi Swastika and the Star of David side by side. Just bizarre really. But moments later I remembered reading that swastikas are all over Asia, but the meaning was very different. However, I had no idea that the hexagram (or six pointed star) was anything other than Jewish….but here they were on the same gate.

The Hindu (or Buddhist) swastika is a symbol of luck.  It bestows auspiciousness on people or things that it embellishes, and that explains why you see it so often on residential gates or painted over shops.  Its so ironic that the Nazis hijacked the symbol so that Western eyes see it as a mark of evil, and yet its original meaning is so different. Slowly, I have become less startled when I see it around.

The Buddhist Shanmukha, or six-pointed triangle, has a similar spiritual meaning as the swastika, so it makes sense that you might see them side by side.

In Buddhism, I understand that some old versions of the “Tibetan Book of the Dead”, contain a hexagram with a Swastika inside. If I see one of those, I’ll let you know.

The post is being revisited for https://dailypost.wordpress.com/dp_photo_challenge/symbol/ as I cannot think of a better example in all my travels.

Works of Art: Murals of Kathmandu


Kathmandu is a very grey, dusty city….especially in the dry season. The problem is compounded by the construction, road works, road creation, road resurfacing and general garbage and mess everywhere. It really is fifty shades of grey (or beige). If something wasn’t grey when it started ….like a bush or a blue car, for example….it soon will be…just give it a few weeks.

But as I glance out from my car window, I do see colour in a few places: the people (especially women with their brightly coloured clothes), omnipresent Coca-Cola corporate red splashed on at least half the small stores and then there’s the murals.

There are a surprising amount of murals all over Kathmandu. And although I can guess at reason why this makes sense, it still always a pleasant surprise when one just shows up on a crumbling wall or hidden away in a corner somewhere. For all its disorder, the city doesn’t have much in the way of ugly graffiti really. But you do see big, bold artistic graffiti, as well as what I’m guessing are carefully crafted, professionally painted political slogans.

Nepali schools are often cheerfully painted bright colours by amateurs to cheer up their grey concrete shells with rudimentary cartoon characters and rainbows.  Advertisers paint whole sides of buildings with giant commercials for cigarettes, coke, or beer.   But then there’s the dazzling display of professionally painted, fantastically creative, murals by real street artists.  Those murals are the real prizes and I am still collecting them as I hunt the city for the next, amazing one.  As I write this post, I’ve researched the concept a little and it turns out there’s a whole informal world of mapped Kathmandu murals….a trail to follow!

Here are some tasters for now….but I’ve a feeling a may return to this subject.  Stay tuned!

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This post participated in the Daily Post’s Weekly Photo Challenge: Work of Art

Weekly Photo Challenge: Kathmandu at Night


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The city seems so calm and quiet at night.

No, this post isn’t about the nightlife — if there is any here — its about the city after nightfall in a place where power outages are scheduled to handle the overloaded demand for power. Load sharing ensures that the power goes out every day at scheduled times, although no one seems to be sure if the schedule means anything. Power seems to go out anytime during the day and at night. For us its just the inconvenience of a one or two second delay while we wait for the generator to kick in. But for most people its a way of life.  Even we have stopped looking up when the power goes out.

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For those lucky enough to have a generator (including us) the night lights remain on. These are the pools of light glowing in the otherwise dark. It reminds me a little of Spetses during a power cut where you can see the flicking light of kerosene lamps from across the valley.

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From the other side the blackout is even greater. Above the skyline of the houses are the foothills with just one or two shining lights above in the blackness. I imagine how dark it must be on the other side of the hill without even the distant glow of Kathmandu to light the sky. I want to go there!

This post participated in the Daily Post’s Weekly Photo Challenge: Nighttime

OK Kids. Time to Put Everything Back in the Box….


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Men at Work

Its surprising just how noisy 8 guys with tape guns can be.   The clunking, scraping and stretching sounds rip across the room like fervent roadscrapers, manically shoveling paths through snow.  A kind of Stockhausen-esque aleatoric composition with its own cacophonic melody.  Concerto for Tape Dispenser in G minor.    I could barely hear myself think above the din.

Drowning in stuff!

Drowning in stuff!

The more soft furnishings that disappeared, the more it echoed.  It took two days to put everything we own “back in the box”…some of it literally and some of it figuratively… and a third day to get it out of the apartment and out of our lives.  At least for a while.

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As if enough wasn’t going on already, the window cleaning platform showed up. For the first time in two years they cleaned the windows properly. Great timing!

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And then the boxes started to disappear

We are packed out and sort of back to square one with our home space, except now we aren’t  expectantly looking around imagining how the space with develop around us, we are remembering our lives in that space and in all of the things we did in the Philippines.

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Going…going….

GONE!

GONE!

I never in my life thought of living in the Philippines.  Its just not on most people’s maps or bucket lists (unless they’re Filipino of course).  It has been both surprising, fascinating, frustrating, ugly and beautiful.  Its hard to even remember my impressions and expectations when I first arrived, and yet when I glance back at my own blog from the first few days, I really feel the extent of 2.5 years here, everything we explored, loved and hated about living here.  Despite the frustrations with traffic and food quality, it has been largely a very positive experience that I am so glad to have had the opportunity to experience.  It my own small way I feel ownership for the land, people and language.  Made in The Philippines will forever mean something more to me.

I doubt we will have the opportunity to return.  We have so many competing places and relationships elsewhere and only limited time to visit, but who knows?  Maybe one day?  I know that even five years from now it will be a very different place.

 

This post participated in the Daily Prompt’s Weekly Photo Challenge: On The Move

 

Weekly Photo Challenge: The Peoples Park in the Sky


Its supposed to read “The People’s Park in the Sky”, but lack of funds and care at this point has reduced the lettering to 60% and several of the letters were precariously swinging from their last connected screw.  The recent typhoons probably gave the rusted letters a real workout.

We visited the park to experience the fantastic views of Lake Taal and the Taal volcano. The views were great.  My camera and the haze don’t do it justice.  You could see for miles:

The site was originally built by Marcos and his wife as a guest house to host Ronald Reagan during his scheduled presidential visit.  However, the visit was canceled and the buildings were never finished.  What was completed was renamed from “The Palace in the Sky” to “The People’s Park in the Sky” and opened to the public.  (Shades of communist China to me.) Sadly it looks like not a penny was spent since its opening…and it sits there crumbling with vendors selling tourist tidbits from the half-completed basement.

There something about places like this that always give me the chills!  Loved the view and loved Tagaytay though. The city of Tagaytay is set on a lake and there’s lots to see and do. With quite a few choices for places to stay, Tagaytay definitely qualifies as interesting place to visit for a short weekend break.  Its only 1.5 hrs from Manila and a world apart.

This post is a participant in the Daily Post’s Weekly Photo Challenge: Letters.