Happy Holi: Run!


DSC01737You better run if you don’t want to get hit!  Today in Nepal it is Holi, a colourful local festival that celebrates joy and happiness. On this day, men, women and children throw colored paint, vermilion power and plain old water on each other and (hopefully) unsuspecting passersby.   It gets pretty messy!

Holi celeration

After dousing his sister in purple paint powder, this little devil is about to super soak her too!

Above every street or around any corner is someone with a paint bomb, ready to take you out! 

This little guy was hidden on a roof, waiting for his next victim.  Little did he know I was watching him!

This little red-faced guy was hidden on a roof, waiting for his next victim. Little did he know I was watching him!

Holi is a religious festival with its own set of legends celebrating Krishna, but I prefer its social message: putting color on each other symbolizes amity, friendship and mutual trust….although I’m not quite sure how ambushing someone with an unexpected shower of coloured water quite installs trust!  But its fun and the kids love it.

It was very hard to take photos surreptitiously.  The second they saw a camera I would have been a major target!  However I did manage to sneek a few through the window.  Here are some very colourful people returning home from the festivities:

Waiting for a lift?

Waiting for a lift?

Holi Festival

For some very colourful people, they are looking very sombre. Maybe they lost the pink powder fight?

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A Word a Week Photograph Challenge

Weekly Photo Challenge: Inside


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Po, our Manila cat.  And, ironically, our first “inside” cat…trapped on the 21st floor of a 53 story building.  Just like us, she was forever finding a new home! Here she is inside the apartment, inside the pantry and inside my nested mixing bowls.

This post participated in the Daily Post’s Weekly Photo Challenge: Inside

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Friendship and the Serial Expat


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Thirty years into this mobile life I can truly say I have friends all over the world.  Not international Facebook buddies I’ve never met, but real friends who I’ve known for a while, or in some cases, forever.  Of course with advent of Facebook, it so much easier to stay in touch.   I remember the pre-internet days of typing, faxing or snail mailing letters – or worse –  writing the dreaded Christmas letter, trying to summarize  the major events of the year into one boring laundry list of milestones that were of little or no interest to anyone who receives it.

Or even worse –  participating in the annual Christmas card ritual that become increasingly meaningless to me, much to the annoyance of my husband.  I don’t think I’m alone in dropping the ritual of sending Christmas cards to distant friends, even when its the only method of communication left.  I think its been slowly dying a death independent of my negligence.  I have only contributed to their demise, and others aren’t writing them either, although some might argue that friends aren’t mailing them to us anymore as they’ve  just given up trying to figure out our address!  But I am suspicious that I’m not the only one that feels the drudgery of repetitively handwriting masses of envelopes outweighs the connectivity that they are supposed to bring,  especially when weighed against the personal connection of a Skype call or even an email.

Despite all the meaningless  white noise of Facebook, it does bring me everyday nuggets of trivia that I care about.  Photos of my nephews and nieces growing up, my friend’s new house, details about places and faces where I have lived but may never see again.  These are the kind of everyday minor details that we’d share if we lived across town or even in the same country.  Its trivia, but its meaningful because of the person sharing it.   And with real friends,  we switch to Skype to share real news, to hear each other’s voices,  or to explain important things privately.  Being an expat was much, much harder before the internet.

Yes, real friends are people that you can reconnect with after a long time apart, and that accept you for who you are.  (And, in our case, people who forgive us for completely wrecking the “w” pages in their address book!)  But they are also the people who remember all the crazy small things you’ve shared, and the little things that are important to you.

Sometimes I envy people who live in the same place all their lives, and have a real sense of place.  But that isn’t really who I am or what would really make me happy.  So I’m grateful that, for at least some of the time,  the internet – almost – makes me feel like I live in a global village.

This post participated in the Daily Prompt: Something So Strong.

Weekly Photo Challenge: Perspective


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American Cemetery, Fort Bonifacio, Manila, Philippines. A solo Star of David amid a sea of crosses. The American Cemetery contains the largest number of American dead from World War II with over 17,000 graves.

This post is a participant in the Daily Post’s Weekly Photo Challenge: Perspective.

Sign Language: A Sign of Corruption


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When we first arrived in Nepal, we noticed this sign.  Its in front of quite an impressive new building, close to our neighbourhood.  It caught my eye as the concept of a Commission for the Investigation of the Abuse of Authority, seemed quite startling.  Its no secret, however, that this country has a record of corruption and the existence of this type of commission is a good thing.  I would stare at the sign every time we drove past it, wishing I knew more about what the commission does and how it effective it is.   It was intriguing to me, but I never felt able to blog about it as the corruption subject is huge and I don’t feel qualified to comment.

However, the State Department recently posted it 2013 Human Rights Report for Nepal on State.gov, and I learnt a little about what goes on there.  Here’s an excerpt from the report:

Corruption: After five years without commissioners, the interim government named a chief commissioner and one associate commissioner to head the NEPAL 18 Country Reports on Human Rights Practices for 2013 United States Department of State • Bureau of Democracy, Human Rights and Labor Commission for the Investigation of the Abuse of Authority (CIAA), which is mandated to investigate official acts of corruption. Under new leadership, the CIAA took high-profile actions against the Nepal Energy Authority, the Department of Immigration, and the Department of Foreign Employment. In August and September, the CIAA arrested 18 officials from the Department of Immigration, 15 from the Department of Foreign Employment, and nine from the Tribhuvan International Airport Labor Desk for sending 77 Nepali migrants to Qatar with fraudulent or improper documentation – a human trafficking-related offense. The most senior official arrested was the director general of the Department of Foreign Employment. All the officials were in detention pending trial. There were numerous reports of corrupt actions by government officials, political parties, and party-affiliated organizations. The UCPN(M) and CPN-M, in particular, reportedly demanded money from schools, businesses, workers, private citizens, and NGOs. There were less frequent reports that student and labor groups associated with other political parties also demanded contributions from schools and businesses. Corruption and impunity remained general problems within the Nepal Police.

From the State Dept NEPAL 2013 HUMAN RIGHTS REPORT

Secret Jellyfish World


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jellyfish

In Koror, a small island kingdom in the Pacific,  there’s a jellyfish lake. Its water is warm and murky, and gliding in feels like stepping into a warm bath.  Peering below the surface of the water, it takes a few seconds to comprehend the other worldliness of the scene.   Pulsating everywhere around are millions…literally millions…. of jellyfish.  They throb and glide through the water in a psychedelic spiral wave, constantly appearing and then disappearing into the cloudy water beyond.   Little alien brains on a mission for light.

It takes a leap of faith to reach out and touch the first one. I picked a very small jellyfish at first, just to be safe.  Oh, the fear!   It brushed my fingers and I flinched.  But,  just as promised, there was no sting.   Then, feeling braver,  I reached out and touched a larger one.  Scooped in my hand, it felt fragile and vulnerable, and suddenly seemed all it really was- just a lump of jelly.

This post was written as part of the challenge:  Daily Prompt: Twilight Zone

Nepalese Frames


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Temple bell in Dhulikel

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Restored gilded door near Patan Dhurbar Square

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A glimpse through the 17th century wooden arches into the main courtyard at Patan Royal Palace

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Nepalese millers making flour in Bhaktapur

Word a Week Photo challenge – Frames

Bicycle Balancing Act


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25 years ago, I used to ride a bike as my only form of transportation along the coastline in the suburbs near Athens.  I cycled along the paralia into town daily.  One morning, laden down with groceries, dog food and dry cleaning, my bike literally snapped under the weight of the load, crumbling to the road and taking it me down with it.  I wasn’t hurt, but my bike lay on the ground contorted, with its neck snapped — fatally wounded with the handlebars still in my hands but joined to the bike’s main frame only by the brake line.  I looked like a freak show.   With my shopping scattered everywhere,  I had to leave the tangled mess abandoned on the curbside to  frantically find a phone and call home for someone to come and scoop me up.   Turns out my faithful bike was a bit of a wimp.

Here in Kathmandu, I remember that experience sometimes when I see  workhorse bicycles passing by,  laden with extraordinary heaving loads. These aren’t wimpy, modern bikes.  But antiqued, sturdy, bone-rattling warriors of the road…which may, or may not, have brakes.   They almost always don’t have gears.  But what they lack in suspension, they make up  for in brute strength.

Sometimes they are so overladen they can only be slowly pushed by their owners, who precariously try to balance their load without being run over by traffic or toppled by the many potholes.  Or sometimes they’re driven by vendors bringing produce from a farm outside the city on a bicycle-towed cart,  or some other creative incarnation of a bicycle that has been cleverly adapted for its owners cargo: the straw broom guy, the furniture sellers or the amazing construction assistants with 50lb bags of cement slung over their handlebars.  I’m awed at what I see ferried around by bike. 

And sometimes I am just horrified.  I see people carrying plates of glass or mirrors,  untethered small children, or horrible breakable, dangerous things that would end in disaster if someone mis-timed or mis-stepped in Kathmandu traffic.  And yet — at least for now — I’ve yet to see that happen.  These guys do this everyday, and are very good at it, and their amazing, trojan bicycles keep them in business.

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This post is was part of the Weekly Writing Challenge, Object ,at dailypost.wordpress.com.

Daily Prompt: A Leap of Faith


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Daily Prompt: What giant step did you take where you hoped your leg wouldn’t break? Was it worth it, were you successful in walking on the moon, or did your leg break?

When my husband was offered a job in the Foreign Service, everything happened so quickly that I had barely time to think about the size of the leap we were taking.  In a few short months he went from “conditional offer” to an actual placement, and I had a further span of about twelve weeks to sell the house, pack everything, move our son out of school, close down my business and figure out what I needed to know once we arrived at the other end….which was the Philippines by the way…and may have been the moon for all I knew about it.   The days were filled from 6am to 11pm with multiple check lists, developing problems, twists and turns.. feeding the cat and making dinner.  In the middle of it all, my son broke his elbow, and I sat until evening in the hospital’s recovery room,taking calls from our realtor, my husband in Washington and the health insurance people, until I fell asleep in my coat and boots, waiting for the doctor to release him.  Sometimes I felt excited, curious or anxious about our new future, but mostly I just lived in the moments created by our big exit plan and trying to make it all work in time.

Somehow it all came together.  Our house sold…despite having the worst possible buyers.  Our stuff got packed out…despite a massive Nor’Easter.  And, that night I walked out of our NJ home for the last time.  We arrived in DC just our few suitcases despite Amtrak’s enormous power failure, where we sat stranded for most of the night on the track somewhere outside of Baltimore.   And somehow we made it out to The Philippines, where we made it our life for two and half years.

Now we live  in Nepal on our second assignment,  having repeated the madness of exit and entry all over again, and we are now working at making another alien new world feel normal.  There are days when I wonder if its worth it, when friends and family feel far away and I can’t stand the dust, dirt and noise of Kathmandu for a minute longer.  But most of the time I’m profoundly grateful for the amazing opportunities that this crazy life brings and keeping my blog has become a way to focus on the spectacular opportunities of our life here.  It would be faithless not to.

Happy Blogging Birthday to me!


test3Most days , WordPress puts up a little orange symbol on the top right-hand side of my dashboard. It usually means someone (or even a number of people) have liked something I’ve posted, or people have subscribed to my blog. Occasionally I even get a little reward for having reached some kind of landmark event. Its fun to get, but not a big focus…I like getting comments the most. However, I just got a “Happy Anniversary 5 Year Award” and suddenly that feels like a big deal. I can hardly believe that I’ve had a blog for that long. Really?!

Of course, in the spirit of full disclosure, its not really five years of solid writing.  My first blog, Caroline and Carla’s Great Adventure, was started in February 2009, but not much happened until Carla and I set off to walk across England in the Summer.  We tried to post on the go, but the internet connectivity and lack of computer access got the better of us many days.  However we did manage a couple of dozen posts, which I moved over to this blog in 2010.  I blogged sporadically from the Philippines, almost losing it altogether in 2011.  But somehow here in Nepal, at least recently, I’ve been on a posting streak and blogging has become a regular activity.

Its been an amazing last few years, and there’s been so many new adventures that sometimes I have to pinch myself that I am able to see and do so many interesting new things.  The blog has been a wonderful way to record and remember the adventures, and to chart my discovery of new countries that eventually become home.

I blog to remember and to share.  I prefer to keep it mostly positive and perhaps sometimes that makes my life seems like one long resort visit.  It isn’t, of course.  Living outside your own culture perpetually is difficult, but I try not to lose sight of the fact that it is also a privilege. ..at least to me.  And although its sort of weird at times to put your experiences out there and not know who is reading them, it also is wonderful to hear from people that they love reading the blog.  That really keeps me going.

I’m in awe of bloggers with thousands of followers and comments.  Although my following has grown in recent years, its still very modest and that’s probably a good thing.  (A crowd of readers always has its trolls, and so far I’ve managed to avoid those.)

So to the few that read this regularly, thanks for the feedback and keep it coming.  Now what shall I write about next?