
All commercial vehicles here are requested to paint an official sign on the back of the car or truck that reads: “How’s my driving?” along with a prescribed phone number to call for comment. You see it quite often in the US and UK too, although to my knowledge its not a requirement, but more of a public image statement meant to illustrate the company’s confidence in the quality of their driver training. At least last time I looked. Here in the Philippines its a law and one that doesn’t appear to serve much purpose. Its no secret that the road conditions and driving are appalling and somehow these signs seem to serve to make things worse. Sitting in back to back traffic, with a jeepney trying to nose into you on your right, a big truck squeezing you from the left and the taxi in front cutting in and out, the words “How’s my driving?” just seem to antagonize… How’s your driving? It just sucks!
Home in The Philippines
Black Eyed Peas – Sige!
Black eyed peas are playing here in late October and I just learnt today that apl.de.ap is Filipino – who knew? Obviously not me…
Anyway, it was fun to watch their Bebot video and pretend I can understand some of the lyrics:
Typhoon Damage at Tondo
“Quiel” or typhoon number two in less than a week is just dying down here in Manila. It was just a bit wet and windy. However, the damage is pretty bad in other areas of the country, especially those already devastated by “Pedring” earlier this week.
Here in the Fort, the damage was limited to a few trees and fallen signs, which were quickly cleaned away and swept up:
But elsewhere the damage was a lot worse. Often those with the worse living conditions get hit the hardest and Pedring took its toll on the residents of Ulingan, in Tondo, a dump site which doubles as a residence area for the city’s poorest of the poor.
Project Pearls is one of the charities that helps bring hope, food, and medical care to the people of Ulingan, and on Saturday morning — just before Quiel started — Latham and I headed with friends and food/blanket donations down to the site.
We watched (and helped a little) as food was handed out to the kids, and took a short tour of the makeshift charcoal factories that provide a small living for some of the families.
I was somewhat prepared to see the extreme poverty and living conditions. I knew the kids pick through the garbage mountains, looking for items that can be repurposed or sold. I knew that the homes are built with anything people could lay their hands on, and a lot of those homes blew away in the last storm. (Many people had been temporarily located to shelter housing while they waited to be able to rebuild their homes. With the wait for things to dry out and more tyhoon damage on the way this was obviously going to take a while.) What I wasn’t prepared for the smells, smoke, crowds and mud that was everywhere. Its a dump and smelt like one. The smoke from the charcoal fires was noxious, and everywhere. It was so bad a times my eyes and throat stung for hours afterwards. (Two showers and two shampoos later, Latham could still smell it in his hair.) The mud from the rains must have greatly improved in just a few days, but bikes and carts and people had a hard time still just getting down the streets.
The site is right on the sea, they must have been chest deep in flooding during the storm. There was no shelter anywhere. Wherever did they go to stay safe?
The kids were amazing though. And there were a lot of them. All ages from tiny up to teen. All friendly, lively and eager to get to know you! These two chased each other all morning and were the stars of the day:
Many thanks to Loraine and Sandra for taking me. It was hard to go there and look around on so many different levels. What it must be to have rich foreigners walking through your poverty stricken life looking on your destitution and handing your kids food. I really felt for them. Its nothing for most of us to donate the occasional bag of rice and it goes a long way to helping feed everyone for a few more days. The Project Pearls organization is a California-based registered charity. Financial donations are gratefully accepted, however small, and the money goes directly to the distributors here. We saw the trucks of food and clothing arrive and go straight to the kids. If you would like to donate, please visit their donation page. Thank you.
I know I will go back to help in some way, if just to take them more rice. With a little girl holding her hand, Sandra summed it up really well. “I mostly just hold their hand. It doesn’t seem like much, but I think for a lot of these kids, its the only attention that they get. Sometimes I feel our visit is the highlight of their week.”
More Typhoon Pics
One more round of pictures….at the risk of overdoing it….its of course been a bit deal here…. These photos are special because they aren’t off a news reel somewhere. Robert took them as he paddled around ankle- knee- or waist-deep in what was essentially sewage water. The heaviest rains hit at high tide, and the Embassy is right on the water. Heavy rains brought in huge waves which, added to ten hours of heavy rain, produced literally rivers of water down side streets. Roxas Boulevard, the main street that runs along the ocean, literally merged with the ocean and all the ocean side buildings were very badly flooded.
Ropes seem to be standard protocol for getting pedestrians across raging river streets…

When the winds blew really hard, they had to take shelter in doorways to stop being blown over…
Can you even imagine trying to cross the street here?

Walking along hidden sidewalks was particularly dangerous, especially near construction sites. You had no idea where the curb was, or any other obstacles such as hydrants or gutters. Lots of reports of cut feet and legs. Bedlam! So glad he got home safe and sound.

Typhoon!…
…from the comparative safety of our apartment building. This thing creaks, groans and shudders when the hard winds hit, but doesn’t feel like its going to fall over!
Things are supposed to get a bit a worse before they get better… hoping everyone stays safe.
High Tea
The British Women’s Association do a High Tea each year here in Manila at the British Ambassador’s house. And a very good job they do too. Anyone who has read Carla and my blog from our walk may remember Carla’s post on learning British terminology. “Cream Teas” were part of her new lexicon, and High Tea is essentially the same thing. Lots of ladies in beautiful dresses, and fancy hats, drinking Pimms and tea.
They serve sandwiches with the crusts cut off (cucumber and salmon sandwiches, of course) and variety of different cakes. Of course there are also scones, jam and cream. It really was very pretty with roses on the table and colourful bunting.
Sourcing some of this stuff in Manila can prove a little challenging. For example, you can’t find clotted cream anywhere outside of England and UHT whipped cream isn’t really the same. Finding tea pots was tricky too, so we all dunked our tea bags in the china cups, but who’s cares…. it was an elegant afternoon!

Sorry about the lack of hat. I was one of about five people who didn’t wear one. I simply didn’t own one and didn’t have the time to track one down here. I’ll try better next year!




Philippino Ingenuity
Sometimes the simplest ideas are the best. Take a look at this ingenious solution to lighting the inside of windowless rooms in poor Philippino neighbourhoods, and remember this the next time you are in a big box megastore where they choose to pay for electricity rather than pay to clean windows, because they think its “cheaper”. Surely we could do better:
Sign Language: How much to spend a penny?
My favourite sign so far….located outside a Filipino public toilet. Price varied with intention! No 1 and No 2 are self-explanatory (pun spotted!) … 3. is shower and 4. is wash. Not sure how you can do one without the other….
For other signs along the way see: http://dailypost.wordpress.com/dp_photo_challenge/signs/
Learning Filipino
I’ve always liked watching commercials in foreign languages. The repetition and limited vocabulary of many (buy now, delicious, new and improved….) can make them a really good way to learn a language. I picked the ad above to share as it doesn’t really need any Tagalog comprehension, but I enjoy the challenge of figuring it what’s being said anyway.
You certainly don’t need a word of Tagalog here. Everyone speaks enough English to get by…but having just a little of the local language really does add so much to the experience of where you are. So, despite the fact that I probably never use it again once I leave the Philippines, I signed up for Tagalog lessons this month. And I’m really enjoying it. The teacher is great and the lessons are really practical for the level of language that I want to learn. There’s enough grammar so that I’m not mindlessly learning phrases without any structural comprehension. But I’m not learning reams of useless stuff that I’ll never really use. My goal at the end of this course is to have enough taxi Tagalog that I can use it with drivers who get confused between “go straight” and “go right” and be brave enough to use for simple greetings and requests with Philippinos. They giggle when you try. Our teacher encouraged us not to worry. Its not a judgement of how bad your attempt is… it just the Philippino way of showing how surprised they are that you’re trying to speak their language. Ummm….not sure I buy that…..but promise to keep trying anyway…. til later: Aalis na ako. Paalam.
When I’m Cleaning Windows….
Everyone’s been complaining about the increasingly dirty windows recently. We were wondering how often they actually got cleaned and have learnt that the answer is “barely ever”. So it was exciting to see a notice in the lobby a week ago saying that the window cleaning would start this week. Why they picked the rainy season, I’m not sure…?
Anyway, while working in the kitchen today, I watched this cage lower itself down….
And three guys step out with a cloth and one bucket of very dirty water. They hung out on the precarious metal “architectural feature” that runs down the building and smoked cigarettes and texted for a while. I guess they were on break. It was really weird to have three guys hanging OUTSIDE my dining room twenty floors in the air. I didn’t want to photograph them in case they thought I was going to get them in trouble or something. I waited until they started work. Here they are once the action got going:
The precarious ledge sans workers. (Yes they did have harnesses, but it still looked pretty dangerous to me):
The result? Eh…a bit better. Not exactly smudgefree. But I’m not sure I could have done better with only one bucket of water, 50 floors and no squeegee… Until next year then….
8















